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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.